Harness for cross weaving



Oct. 19 1926.

' 1,603,782 H. E. LITTLEJOHN HARNESS FOR CROSS WEAVING Filed March l3, 1926 4 Shoots-Sheet 2 warh a- A E lwenzor 1a H7 fln zrzzzzz b I 6: a ll 20 %.@-M

Oct. 19 1926.

H.E,LHTLFJOHN uARNEss FOR caoss WEAVING Filed March 13, 1926 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Oct. 19 1926.

' 1,603,782 H. E. LITTLEJOHN 1 HARNESS FOR CROSS WEAVING Filed March 13, 1926 4 Shasta-Sheet 5 ("6' I Ef Inventor: fin ylfflfifil ejohzg Oct, 19 ,1926.

H. E. UTTLEJQHN HARNESS FOR CROSS WEAVING Filed March 13, 1926 4 Sheets-Shoot 4 as 37 Inventor flngli'ziii k 'okg Patented Get, 19, 1926.

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HARNESS FOR CROSS WEAV ING.

Application fil-ed March 13. 1926.

My invention relates to loom harness for use in that method of weaving known as cross-weaving, sometimes called doup weaving or gauze weaving, in which certain of the warp threads are crossed or twisted about others at as many poinjtsin the fabric as maybe desirable. The crossing of the threads may occur at certain series of picks arranged according to a pattern W or design to be produced.

The principal object of my invention is to providea metal harness for cross-weaving which will be simple, durable and efficient for all classes of cross-weaving, and which will not only be adaptable for the simpler forms of cross weaving, but which will also permit the weaving of certain combinations of plain weaves with certain types of crossweaving, which has not heretofore been practicable to produce with metal doup harness without employing a number of shafts for the doup harness, with the resultant complications of the shed and likelihood of fouling of the threads and causing faults in the fabric.

With the foregoing object in View, my invention contemplates the provision of a novel form of doup needle by means of which various kinds of fabrics can be efii- ;;;i ciently woven. For example, by the employment of this type of doup needle there may be efficiently woven such fabrics as are known in the trade as fancy or figured marquisettes, and also the two over two leno in combination with plain or basket weave in the same fabric.

The nature and characteristic features of my present invention will be more readily understood from the following description, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings forming part hereof, in which:

Figure 1 is a side elevation of a doup needle constituting the principal novel element of my present invention;

Fig. 2 is a side elevation illustrating the doup needle shown in Fig. 1 arranged in conjunction with lifting heddles of a well known and common type;

Figs. 3 and a are fragmentary views illustrating the doup needle belng lifted to the two different operative positions by the respective lifting heddles Fig. 5 is a side elevation, to a certa n extent diagrammatic, showing the arrange- Serial No. 94,4632.

ment at one (juisette's; 6 is a view similar to Fig. 5, show ing the arrangement at another pick for weaving the same fabric; '1 i Fig. 7 is a view similar to Figs. 5 and 6. showing the arrangement for still another pick for weaving the same fabric, this view llustrating more particularly the manner of crossing the'dou'p end over the ground s; 7

Fig. 8 is a side elevation, to a certain extent diagrammatic, showing an arrangement for weaving plain weave, with harness adapted at other picks for weaving two over two leno; and

9 is a view similar to Fig. 8, but show ng the arrangement at the time of crossing two warp ends over two other warp ends at desired picks. v

In the following description, the term doup ends should be understood to mean those warp ends passing through and controlled by the doup needle, and ground ends should be understood to mean those around which the doup ends are passed.

Referring to the drawings, the doup needle there shown constitutes the preferred form or embodiment of the principal novel element of the present invention, and the same is shown detached in Fig. 1. As there shown, the same may be formed from any suitable metal, either flat or round, but the same is preferably punched or cut from a thin, fiat sheet or strip.

The upper outer margin of the doup needle is arched or curved as at 10, while the inner portion of this end of the doup needle is formed into a crotch having an inner lower marginal edge 11 which is pref erably flat. Extending downwardly from the upper end are two legs 12 and 13, which terminate at their lower extremities in respective enlarged portions '14 and 15. The enlarged portion 14 is prov ided with a slot 16', and the enlarged portion 15 is provided with a slot 17, these slots being provided for connection of i the doiip needle, with means ofcont'rol of the lower extremities thereof, which means may be of any of the forms which are common and well known in the art.

The leg 13 of the doup needle is prorided with a el nga slot 8, which s pick for weaving figured mar-- enlarged at the top, as at 19, and preferably'extends over to or beyond the central line of the doup needle, for a purpose which will presently be apparent.

The doup needle is preferably mounted in conjunction with a pair of lifting heddles 20 and 21, which may be of any desired form for positively lifting the doup needle. These lifting heddles are preferably of the type shown in Letters Patent No. 1,037,151, granted to Jacob Kaufmann, August 27, 1912, to which reference is had for a de tailed description of the construction and arrangement of the same. As there shown, each of the lifting heddles comprises two flat metal strips interlaced together intermediate their ends, being separated sufficiently above the interlaced portion to permit the doup needle to be mounted therebetween, the under margin 11 at the upper end of the doup needle resting upon a shoulder formed by a bent portion of one of the strips of the composite lifting heddle. By the foregoing arrangement, the doup needle may be positively lifted by one or the other of the lifting heddles for the purpose of effecting the crossing of the warp ends at the desired picks, as will be hereinafter set forth.

It will, of course, be understood that other types of lifting heddles, having means for engaging the inner under margin 11 of the crotch at the upper end of the doup needle, may be employed if desired, without departing from the spirit of the present invention.

It will be noted that, when the inner m argin 11 of the crotch at the upper end of the doup needle is raised upon the shoulder provided by the lifting heddle 20, the enlarged portion 19 of the slot 18 will extend beyond the edge of said lifting heddle 20, thereby forming an eye within which the doup ends are adapted to be confined when the lifting heddle 20 is raised with respect to the lifting heddle 21. However, when the lifting heddle 21 is raised with respect to the lifting heddle 20, the greater portion of the extension of the slot 18 in the le 13 of the doup needle will be exposed beyond the edge of the lifting heddle 20, and thereby permit the doup ends to be freely manipulated up and down in said slot 18 during the shedding. This effect is more certain by reason of an offset 22 in the lifting heddle 20, which is provided immediately above the shoulder of the lifting heddle 20, upon which the inner marginal edge of the doup needle rests. The lifting heddle 21 is likewise provided with an offset portion 23 at a similar location, thereby providing more space between the lifting heddles at their upper portions, and permitting greater freedom in the manipulation of the warp.

A. variety ofv fabrics may be efficiently woven by employing the harness herdinbemoans-2 fore described. For example, in weaving figured marquisette, when a doup end crosses two plain ground ends the arrangement and operation of this doup harness is as follows: Figs. 5, 6 and 7 show the various positions of doup needles, lifting heddles, and regular heddles through which the warp ends 25, 26 and 27 are drawn. lVarp end 25 is drawn through a regular heddle 30 and then passed through the slot 18 of the doup and through the reed (not shown) in the loom. arp ends 26 and 27 are drawn through regular heddles 28 and .29, respectively, and then passed between. the two lifting heddles 20 and 21, and then through the reed (not shown) in the loom.

Pick 31 is inserted when heddles 20 and 29 are raised while heddles 21, 28 and 30 are lowered as shown in Fig. 5. Pick 82 is inserted when heddles 21 and 28 are raised while heddles 20, 29 and 30 are lowered as shown in Fig. 6. Pick 33 is inserted when the heddles are in the same position as shown in Fig. 5. This pick is exactly similar to pick 31. Pick 34 is inserted when heddles 21, 28 and 30 are raised while heddles 20 and 29 are lowered as shown in Fig. 7.

Figs. 5, 6 and 7 show the heddles in various positions for shots of filling through the shed for weaving figured marquisette. This fabric, being a combination of plain weave with crosssweave, in that the three sets of ends 25, 26 and 27 are made to weave plain for a certain number of picks and then. end 25 caused to cross the two ends 26 and 27, is produced by the several positions of heddles as hereinafter set forth, reference be ing had to said Figs. 5, 6 and 7..

)Yhen it is desired to cross the doup end under the ground ends, the heddle 3G is raised, thus raising the doup end 25 to or near the top of slot 18 and carrying this end 25 to the opposite side of the ground ends 26 and 27. F'Vhen it is desired to cross the doup end 25 back to the other side of the ground ends 26 and 27, the heddles will be in the same positions as shown in Fig. 5. It should therefore be understood tlnftat every other pick the heddles 20 and 21 and theend 25 will be in positions as shown in Fig. 5, whether cross weave or plain weave is being produced. The crossing of the end 25 under the ends 26 and 27 at every other pick will necessitate the use of a slackenin device (not shown) for all ends similar t?) 25 in the whole warp. This slackening de vice may be such as is in common use in the art.

From the foregoing, it will be apparent to those versed in this method of weaving that either cross weave or plain weave can be produced by the manner in which heddle 30 is operated while all other heddles will continue to operate continuously at alternate picks as shown in Figs. 5 and 6. If

heddle 3O is raised with all other heddles in position as shown in Fig. 6, cross weave will be produced. If heddle is lowered with all other heddles in position as shown in Fig. 6, plain weave will be produced.

Thus by using one shaft for all heddles similar to 20, and another shaft for all heddles similar to 21, and drawing ends similar to 25 in different heddles to the rear of this one set of heddles 20 and 21, and in turn passing these ends through the doups, it is possible to cause a multiplicity of changes from plain to cross weave and thus produce the characteristic figured effects desired in this class of fabrics.

Fig. 8 shows the adaptation of this invention when used to allow all ends in the loom, a part t iereof according to a prearranged plan, to weave plain or parallel and then, when desired, to cross two or more of such ends over two or more other ends. This de- .icription relates only to two ends crossing wer two other ends, but it will, of course, is understood that three or more ends may be so manipulated if desired. In the figure, warp ends ll and 12 are drawn through heddles 38 and 37, respectively, and then passed through the slot 18, and then to the reed (not shown) in the loom. arp ends 39 and 4C0 are drawn through heddles 36 and 35, respectively, and then passed between lifting heddles 20 and 21, and on to the reed (not shown) in the loom. When li'ftll'lg heddle 21 is raised and lifting heddle 20 is lowered as shown, the heddles 8 5, 36, S7 and 38 may be operated by a lifting device of any preferred type (not shown) on the loom to produce a plain weave for as many pic-ks as may be desired. v

lVhen the two doup ends are to be crossed over the two ground ends, heddles 35, 36, 37 and 38 are lowered, lifting heddle 21 is lowered, and lifting heddle 20 is raised, thus passing the two doup ends 41 and 42 up into the eye formed between the end of the slot 18 and the lifting heddle 20 (see Fig. 9). The two doup ends are crossed back to the other side by raising heddles 37 and 38, lowering lifting heddle 20, and raising lifting heddle 21, allowing heddles and 36 to remain down. Of course, suitable jumping and slackening attachments (not shown) should be used with this form of weaving as is done with any other doup, and as will be readily understood by those skilled in the art.

It will be seen that, by the foregoing, a wide variety of figured cross weave effects may be readily and efficiently woven, which heretofore it has only been entirely practicable to produce by the employment of twine doups, and this may be accomplished without unduly complicating the harness of the loom.

Having thus described. the nature and at; w

characteristic features of my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:

1. In harness for cross-weaving, a doup needle having two legs, one of said legs having a warp end slot formed therein, said slot extending the greater portion of the length of said leg.

2. In harness for cross-weaving, a doup needle having. two legs, one of said legs having a war end slot formed therein, said slot extending the greater portion of the length of said leg and having its upper end enlarged.

3. In harness for cross-weaving a doup needle having two legs, one of said legs having a warp end slot formed therein. said slot extending the greater portion of the length of said leg and having its upper end extending beyond the medial line of the needle. I l

at. In harness for cross-weaving, a doun needle having two legs, one of said legs having a warp end slot formed therein, said slot extending the greater portion of the length of said leg and having its upper end enlarged and extending beyond the medial line of the needle. V

5. In'harness for cross-weaving, a doup needle having two legs, one of said legs hav1ng a warp end slot formed therein, said slot extending the greater portion of the length of said leg, and each leg having an enlarged lower end portion having a slot therein for control of the lower end of the needle.

6. In harness for cross-weavinga doup needle having two legs, one of said legs having a warp end slot formed therein, said slot extending thegreater portion of the length of'said leg, and each leg having a slot in the lower end portion for control of the lower end of the needle.

7. In harness for cross weaving, a doup needle having two legs, one of said legs having a warp end slot formed therein, said slot extending the greater portion of the length of said leg, and means adapted alternatively to confine warp ends passing through the slot in the upper end portion thereof or to permit said warp ends to be freely manipulated in said slot.

8. In harness for cross-weaving, a doup needle having two legs, one of said legs having a warp end slot formed therein, said slot extending the greater portion of the length of said leg, and means for positively ra sing said needle adapted alternatively to confine warp ends passing through the slot in the upper end portion thereof or to permit said warp ends to be freely manipulated in said slot.

9. In harness for cross-weaving, a doup needle having two legs, one of said legs having a warp end slot formedtherein, said slot use extending the greater portion of the length of said leg and having its upper end enlarged, and means for positively raising said needle adapted alternatively to confine warp ends passing through the slot in the enlarged upper end portion thereof or to permit said warp ends to be freely manipulated in said slot.

10. In harness for cross-weaving, a doup needle having two legs, one of said legs having a warp end slot formed therein, said slot extending the greater portion of the length of said leg and having its upper end enlarged and extending beyond the medial line of the needle, and means for positively raising said needle adapted alternatively to confine warp ends passing through the slot in the enlarged upper end portion thereof or to permitsaid warp ends to be freely manipulated in said slot.

11. In harness for cross-weaving, a doup needle having two legs one of said legs having a warp end slot formed therein, said slot extending the greater portion of the length of said leg, and a pair of lifting heddles engaging said needle in the crotch of the legs thereof, the arrangement helng such that when one of said lifting heddles is raised warp ends passing through the slot in the doup needle will be confined in the upper end portion of said slot, and when the other of said lifting heddles is raised said warp ends may be freely manipulated in said slot.

12. In harness for cross-weaving, a doup needle having two legs one of said legs hav ing a warp end slot formed therein, said slot extending the greater portion of the length of said leg and having its upper end extending beyond the medial line of the needle, and a pair of lifting heddles engaging said needle in the crotch of the legs thereof, the arrangement being such that when one of said lifting heddles is raised warp ends passing through the slot in the doup needle will be confined in the upper end port on of said slot, and when the other of said lifting heddles is raised said warp ends may be freely manipulated in said slot.

13. Inharness for cross-weaving, a doup needle having two legs, one of said legs having a warp end slot formed therein, said slot extending the greater portion of the length of said leg and having its upper end enlarged, and a pair of lifting heddles engaging said needle in the crotch of the legs thereof, the arrangement being such that when one of said lifting heddles is raised warp ends passing through the slot in the doup needle will be confined in the enlarged upper end portion of said slot, and when the other of said lifting heddles is raised said warp ends may be freely manipulated 1n said slot.

14. In harness for cross-weaving, a doup needle having two legs, one of said legs having a Warp end slot formed therein. said slot extending the greater portion of the length of said leg and having its upper end enlarged and extending beyond the medial line of the needle, and a pair of lifting heddles engaging said needle in the crotch of the legs thereof, the arrangement being such that when one of said lifting heddles is raised warp ends passing through the slot in the doup needle will be confined in the enlarged upper end portion of said slot, and when the other of said lifting heddles is raised said warp ends may be freely manipulated in said slot.

In testimony whereof, I have hereunto signed my name.

HENRY E. LITTLEJOHN.

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